Complete Bailey Files | Food and wine books, now and then

This edition of Phil Bailey Files was originally emailed to subscribers on June 10, 2022. To receive Matt Kateman’s food newsletter in your inbox every Friday, sign up at

One recent Saturday morning, I came back from walking my dog ​​and saw neighbors putting yard seals in their driveway. Well, it was really Bob’s driveway, but Bob was moved to a facility that could take better care of his aging mind, so his family used his old furniture, fishing. He was selling poles and other items while preparing a house for his granddaughter.

Wine lockers, full size bar sets, and various utensils like fishmouth cork screws were interesting, but I wasn’t in the mood to move furniture or add clutter to kitchen drawers. Then I found dusty old book boxes on the ground, many of them focused on food and drink, ready to take the wisdom of their ancient dishes.

I read one recently. New York Times A re-emerging story among young book collectors, and while I don’t live up to the young man’s definition, I thought it might be nice to collect some old tomes for my already full bookshelf. Considering through Old Mr. Boston’s Deluxe Official Bartender’s Guide (1964 edition) Avocado Bravo (Published by the California Avocado Advisory Board in 1976), and Bottle fatigue (Virgil Franklin Parch’s Boozy 1950s collection of illustrations), I also found that some of them could one day give the perfect gift to a true friend or family member.

Here’s a look inside Avocado Bravo. | Credit: Matt Kateman

When I was ready to pay, I explained that I was the neighbor who regularly gave me bottles of wine, and they gave me my treasure for free. As soon as I got home I unveiled the humor found on these pages, a time-capsule blend of mid-century skepticism, potentially rebellious tricks, and a sharp confidence that diminished in our egg shell. It has become common, always. The age of self-knowledge

I Men like dishes.A 1952 cookbook published by Worcestershire sauce maker Lee & Pearins, whose name has not been released, although apparently the female author begins, “If you have a husband who likes to cook. If he does, then pamper him. Encourage him! You are really lucky, even though you find yourself a maid who only brings and carries while her intelligence is shining. But men are wise, a thousand. None of them really want to take over the job. They usually have some special things to produce on the spot and leave the rest to us to cook. Other highlights in the following pages There are four types of stuffed eggs, the largest of the calf liver, and the rare.

I My Fair Lady KicksEmma Dempster, the “Kick Book for Fair Ladies” organized by American Airlines since 1964, declared that women do not cook like men because they “adhere to this old mother’s formula,” where men “They’re more adventurous. And unhindered. Bottle in hand. They’ll happily put just that extra dash into whatever they’re drinking at the moment. Put a pinch or two into the herb with a squeaky sound, creating something completely different. It’s different from what they started making. “

Drawing of Virgil Franklin Parch from bottle fatigue. | Credit: Matt Kateman

But hopefully, ladies. “Of course you don’t have to plaster,” writes Dempster, “and you can cut veins for children, but you can at least use your imagination.” Pull in consultation with the cast My fair lady – In which her husband, Hugh Dempster played the role of Colonel Pickering – The most unique book includes Julie Andrews of Florentine, Charles Victor Trip and Owens, and Audrey Hepburn’s Date Torture.

I had a lot of practical advice. French country cooking By Elizabeth David (written in 1951 at the time of food rationing) and by Fernand Garron French wine Since 1960 (wrapped in Beverly Wilshire Hotel jacket). But the most impressive set I picked up was the 1946 edition of Charles H. Baker Jr. Gentleman’s companion, Volume I’s “Being an Exotic Cookery Book” and Volume II’s “Being an Exotic Drinking Book” feature. Combining travel journals and narrative cookbooks, recipes include drinks such as Guinea fowl basting sauce from West Africa, conch curry from the Bahamas, and Cajun seamstress turtle from Mississippi, as well as Peking Tigers Country, East India House Cocktail, and Mexican Firing Squad. Are .

I’m already talking to some people about fixing some of these dishes, for example, if men really like things like jelly sauce and veal in tuna chip casserole. In the meantime, they’re just fun and funny to read, offering epicurean ideas that I haven’t seen on modern menus, reflecting the current foreign accents of previous generations. When in doubt, beef pie with chefs, cheese and chicken a la king is always easy.

Food around town

Here are some of my food highlights from recent weeks around town.

Credit: Matt Kateman
  • In the old town of Guelita, the brand new Marisco Santa Barbara, with aguchail and prawn-filled peppers, as well as tamarind-flavored Michalda. A great place to watch the afternoon traffic.
Credit: Matt Kateman
  • The chicken is very crispy and quite spicy, even on a medium scale, from the Metz Hot Chicken in the SB Public Market. Dip your mouth into the hot homemade sauce and breathe more.
Credit: Matt Kateman
  • Chef Craig Ryker now heads Finch & Fork, offering fancy pork belly eggs (he made one with a scallop for my wife), sweet potato soup, Himachi crocodile, and tuna. Pok – It’s all in front of visitors.
Credit: Matt Kateman
  • I took my son to Sama Sama Kitchen for his sixth grade graduation ceremony. It’s been a while, but he’s still addicted to chicken wings, and the crispy duck salad reminds me of my childhood favorite Chinese chicken salad.
  • I finally reached Timbers Roadhouse in West Goliath after a day of golfing. The onion rings were solid and the lettuce flavor was fresh. Fried chicken sandwiches and baby bake ribs could have been more flavorful, but I’m looking forward to enjoying more space this summer.

From our table

Out of Proud Mocha of Java Station | Credit: Rebecca Dianda

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