Sydney’s paradise has spread to Melbourne, Canberra is in sight.

People living outside of Sydney often associate the dining scene with a special pleasing glamor – a long lunch in a French bistro, say, or seafood at the harbor. But it’s hard to imagine a ritual that would expose the difference between a whitewashed image of the city and all the intricacies of its cultural reality, such as eating Lebanese-Australian chicken. Preferably cooked on hot charcoal, crowned with Cloud Light Tom (garlic sauce) and served with a tower of freshly beaten, this is a traffic that L. John has made famous.

The popular food restaurant was set up in 1998 by Lebanese immigrants Andre and Carol Stephen in Granville, a suburb of West Sydney. It now has multiple locations and in the process has become one of the city’s great social figures.

Visiting the Paradise branch is like experiencing the city’s microcosm. The family discusses the brass breasts and wings, the skin shines from the marinade and reaches perfection. Merchants are lying on hot-pink pickles. Traders line up for hot chips and shawarma rolls, fresh Lebanese bread including beef, parsley, green pickles and tahni sauce.

Bright, tart pickles and signature Jinnah Charcoal Chicken.
Source: Paradise

Brand CEO Brett Holden says El Jinnah could be followed by its first store.

“Australia’s palette has grown significantly over the last 20 years,” Holden told SBS. “Al-Jinnah is the center of many cultures from Granville. People from Middle Eastern backgrounds have really come together around this Granwell store. Its popularity has become like a cult for those who eat Were aware. “

The story of Lebanese cuisine in Sydney has, of course, been different. Lebanese immigrants who came from the Ottoman district of Mount Lebanon in the mid-19th century, according to a May 2019 report Gourmet traveler, Had to hide their spices to hide for the cultural majority. But communities fleeing the Lebanese Civil War (1975-90) arrived at a time when Australia was slowly tackling its multicultural history. Holden says the brand, which opened the New Town outpost in 2019, is spreading across the country.

“This is the beginning of a real change for us as demand has seen us move beyond the customer base,” said Holden, adding that stores on the south coast of Canberra and New South Wales are ahead. “We’re in Cougar, Broad, Earlwood. Places like New Town, which is City Fringe, have been very successful. We opened eight weeks ago in Preston, Melbourne and it’s been very popular.

More than two decades later, El Jinnah has expanded beyond its original Granville store.
Source: Paradise

When we photograph local establishments, we imagine a favorite neighborhood cafe, the Italian Tretoria, which does not change like the rest of the world. How do you serve the community beyond your means? For Holden, it’s about adopting consistency.

“We focus on chicken from the very beginning in the supply chain process,” he says. “We have a main kitchen where we do all the marinating and then it goes to the store for cooking and preparation.”

Al-Jinnah is the center of many cultures from Granville. People from Middle Eastern backgrounds have really come together around this Granville store.

In Paradise, the unconventional taste of charcoal is carefully calibrated.

“We are very specific about how long our chicken is cooked over an open fire, how hot it should be, when it is cooked and when it is eaten, depending on how long it is kept,” he says. Goes, ”he says. “Getting it all is an art form. That’s the first priority. That’s what we’re famous for. That’s what we can do when others can’t.”

Holden says that despite its rapid growth, Al Jana’s roots will always be firmly rooted in West Sydney and the relationship with Stephens continues.

“El Jinnah has been a family-owned business for 24 years. Carroll was originally a chef, Andre had a business mentality and they were passionate about reviving their food together. Active role in Al Jinnah.”

For information about Al-Jannah KSSee ydney and Melbourne locations. website.

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